Skiing the Alps

During the week of the President’s Day holiday we headed to the Alps in Austria to get in some skiing.   Such a trip is not only the MAIN reason we chose to live in Europe for a few years, but it has also been the life-long dream to ski the Alps for Jason……a bucket wish list item # 1 if you will. 

Our destination was St. Anton, Austria. The venue for the ski world championships in 2001, St. Anton in Arlberg is considered the ski capital of Austria and one of Europe's best ski resorts.  It has also become one of the world's Mecca’s for ski bums. That's a reflection of the wonderful, tough off-slope runs available in the bowls below the Valluga - the best that Austria allegedly has to offer.  There are actually five different ski areas to explore: St. Anton, St. Christoph, Stuben, Zürs, and Lech (the last three a short bus-ride away…..that can be an adventure in itself).  

Driving down to Austria we were a bit anxious toward the conditions that awaited us. In spite of the heavy snow that had blessed the slopes in most of December and January, most of the areas in the Alps had received zero accumulation since January 25^th.   Three solid weeks of sun and cold temperatures at 6,000 feet……sounds like a vertical ice skating rink more than anything else.  There was a low pressure forecasted for the weekend….maybe we would get lucky for a few fresh centimeters. 

We arrived late Sunday night after surviving an interesting commute through long tunnels and hours of heavy snow storms.  Skiing the first day on fresh accumulation looked promising.  When the alarm went off in the early morning our hopes were confirmed, but there was a price to pay: heavy clouds and continued snow storms.  Not a problem, we have all week, so we thought this would be good for us to enjoy the lack of crowds and explore the different areas and find a few good runs for when the visibility improved. 

The plan was working great and Monday was a good day to get the ski legs back.  A little difficult to see, but still manageable.  Tuesday was a completely different story.  Visibility was limited to less than 5 meters…..maybe 20 feet in front of you.  Not a big deal if you know the terrain and are familiar with the runs.  We were neither so we created a routine of skiing to the next trail marker.  Seriously….we could not see the next trail marker less than 50 meters away..…the clouds were that thick.  So Tuesday was deemed “work on your form” day on the intermediates. 

On Wednesday the clouds moved on and we awoke to a perfect sun-filled blue sky.  Not only this, but the snow storms of the past few days had left behind a good 12 inches of un-touched powder.  Yummy.  The downside of St. Anton is that it can get crowded when the conditions are just right.  Uh, yeah….we can confirm this.  The line waiting for the Gondola to open was crazy…….much like the lines the night before Black Friday.  The first tracks were worth it though and we had one of the best ski days ever.  The views were not that bad as well.

 





We are all smiles.....a natural side effect when skiing powder in the Alps.  

On this very run the day before (Tuesday) we could not see far enough ahead to spot the next trail markers....nor enjoy the amazing views.

I nearly skied into this "sculpture" half-buried in the middle of the run.  We found many more of this figures later in the week and learned this was a month-long "art exihibit".  Good thing we opted to not ski off-piste the day before....these things were made of iron.  Ouch. 

After a long day skiing at Stuben, we were in the process of skiing back to the main village of St. Anton.  Part of this route requires taking a very short lift to the next chair lift.  In addition to the infamous T-bar, they have created a covered tunnel equiped with a moving belt that will take the skier to the same destination.  The covered tunnel was quickly referred to as "the tunnel of shame"........ 

....and one of us opted to "enjoy" this magical ride.  I'm above calling people out on not taking the T-bar when available though....so no names. 

The view near the top towards the end of the day. 

The best part of skiing: enjoying a nice warm beverage after a long day on the slopes.  Apre's skiing was top notch here with the most popular places located on the hill.  Andrea enjoying a warm tasty beverage while people watching.

Our view from the balcony....hours of endless entertainment watching skiers navigate heavily skied-out slopes on the last run of the day. 

Thursday.  The weather was just as good as Wednesday.  Another perfect day in the Alps. 

One of the best powder runs I found during the week.  In spite of the crowds, finding un-touched powder was incredibly easy.  In the states the fresh stuff is gone before noon.  Not here......it lasted days.  What am I missing?!??  Some might wonder what it is like to ski powder in the Alps.  I liken it to the Rockies: very light, but not "champagne powder" that can be found in Colorado or Utah.  I'll take it though.....way better than the "northwest cement". 

The views never got old. 

Our view from the deck as we enjoyed a lunch break.  Not a bad view.....

A great find: a long un-touched powder run void of any skiers or snowboarders.  What a dream....... 

Looking down on the village of St. Christoph.

A hopeful wish: Andrea's future business in the heart of the Alps.  Milch is German for Milk, Andrea's nickname by many friends....and husband. 

The only mass transit that I look forward to taking each morning: the Gondola.  This was no ordinary Gondola.....the two massive wheels lift the car from the cable down to the loading platform and then back up again to the cable before it rushes people up the mountain. 

At Zürs you will find an old school Gondola......like the 60's old school.

The car comes equipped with handles and is operated by a person inside the car. 

The view looking down from the car as we rode to the top.

Skiing down about half way to enjoy the view. 

A map showing two of the five ski areas.....

With the week of skiing over we left feeling satisified and a bit sore.  For our route home we opted to take the local pass versus the 15 kilometer long tunnel.  The views were amazing.....so I grabbed the camera and began clicking away as we drove down the pass. 

The last picture I took before the co-pilot, who doubles as the CEO of our relationship, ordered me to surrender the camera and focus on driving. 

The pass that connects the ski areas of St. Christoph with Zürs and Lech.  A narrow, one-lane road cut into the side of the mountain.  Earlier in the week when our bus "met" a large truck coming the opposite direction I thought we were done.  However, both drivers knew what they were doing and everyone made it to their destination safely.  Impressive......

One of many avalanche tunnels that we encountered on our drive down the pass.

 

Our first ski vacation to the Alps and I have to say that it was nearly perfect.  Great conditions, excellent food, and really fun people from all over Europe.  So how many vacations can we take to the Alps before it gets old?  We intend to find that answer.........